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Natsuko Shoji: “Being female, young and penniless was a triple challenge that made it difficult for me to open the restaurant”

Carla Vidal

 

The woman declared Asia's Best Female Chef 2022 in The 50 Best Restaurants, Natsuko Shoji, spoke up for the work of producers at FéminAs, and called for gender equality in gastronomy.

Natsuko Shoji arrived in Asturias from Tokyo (Japan) as the chef of Été, a small restaurant where she serves up contemporary French food using local produce to bring about a fusion of haute cuisine and haute couture designs and ideas. Her fruit pies are appreciated and highly prized all over the world, but Natsuko admitted that her journey "has been plagued with challenges, and during it I've learned many lessons".

Japan is one of the Asian countries with the most notable gender differences in social circles and employment, a reality Natsuko Shoji had to contend with when she started out. “Being female, young and penniless was a triple challenge that made it difficult for me to open the restaurant", confessed the Japanese chef, and she also explained how she overcame those difficulties: “I had to be creative, and I decided to start off with a cake shop, which was what I could afford without any major financing". From her cake business - which she still runs - Shoji was able to move on to a gastronomy restaurant, although this is still a small setup with a single table for only six diners. “This business model is easier to set up and manage. That is how I survived. This is the way forward for young female chefs to set up a business", reasoned Natsuko, adding that in Japan the number of female chefs "is very small, and the number of chef proprietors is even lower. It's something that stands out, because at catering schools gender parity is the norm, but then very few of us decide to continue our professional career". Natsuko Shoji feels it is important to air this problem, so that models can be created to be used as references by future generations.

But this is not the only battle that is being fought by this young chef. Support for Japanese producers and artisans and promotion of their experience and produce are additional facets of her work. “I consider it my mission to elevate the enthusiasm of artisan Japanese producers for their food through my recipes", said Shoji proudly as she showcooked her famous mango tart. This recipe served as an illustration of her relationship with the producer: "I never ask for anything, I never make any special requests, because I think it's not my place to do so, and I respect his knowledge". Natsuko works with local producers who use sustainable techniques, and she shares their stories not only through her gastronomic creations, but also by teaching the new generations who are learning the cookery trade "the need to be aware of the trajectory of the product, for better overall comprehension and appreciation".

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